Tutorial: how to make a wooden swing?

Tutorial: how to make a wooden swing?

There are sensations that we do not forget, this is the case with the swing. We all keep in a corner almost erased from our memories these moments of happiness, this exhilarating pleasure of swinging in the void, trying to touch the treetops, always higher, always faster ... For the less adventurous , maybe it was this pleasure of reading sitting while being gently rocked back and forth? A touch of nostalgia, a quiet afternoon, it takes no more to decide to revive the child who sleeps in each of us. We suggest you make a comfortable model suitable for adults, and which will also suit children!
Difficulty : easy Cost : around 30 euros (20 euros of rope, 10 euros of wood) Tools required : - A hardwood plank minimum 150x15x2.5 cm, - A handsaw, - An electric drill or screwdriver, - A flat wood bit of 18 mm, - A wood drill of 4, - 8 wood screws 5x40, - A 10 m polypropylene rope 18 mm in diameter, - A square, a pencil, a meter, sandpaper, a knife and a clamp. Optional : - An electric sander.

 

Step 1: Cut your board


Cut 2 pieces of 60 cm long which you will then place side by side, to form a rectangle of 60x30 cm. Which corresponds to a very comfortable seat.
Cut the two battens of 30 cm each with the rest of the board. Attention, this time you have to cut the board lengthwise, that is to say parallel to the wood fibers. The direction of the fibers is very important for the solidity of the swing, so the direction of the fibers of the battens below is perpendicular to the direction of the fibers of the two boards above. If your board was 15 cm wide, you should get 2 cleats of 30x7.5 cm.

Step 2: Sand the angles


This step should not be overlooked, it is perhaps even the most important step. A bit tedious, but necessary, you have to sand all the angles of the pieces of wood! We must at all costs avoid splinters, but also blows to the head. Fear the corner of the swing that rarely forgives a dizzy child. This is where the optional equipment comes in, the electric sander, which will simplify your task. In addition to the safety aspect, softening and making pleasant to the touch a beautiful material such as wood, can only amplify the pleasure of sitting there.

Step 3: Attach the cleats


Position the cleats at the end and allow a centimeter of the seat board to protrude. In case of rain, this provision will protect the cleat more durably. Use the clamp to temporarily assemble the assembly.
With the drill of 9, make a pilot hole for each screw, so as to drown the head of the screw, that is to say, so that the head of the screw does not protrude from the wood. Half a centimeter deep is more than enough. The holes are positioned at the ends, they will ensure the maintenance of the board below. You must make 4 on each side, 8 in total.
We will now drill the inside of these pilot holes with the drill bit 4. Before drilling, pay attention to the drilling depth, you must just facilitate the entry of the body of the fixing screws, you must not lead to the other side. The total thickness of the boards is 5 cm (i.e. 2 thicknesses of 2.5 cm), the pilot hole is 0.5 cm and the screw 4 cm, which leaves 0.5 cm margin of error for avoid coming out on the other side. This pilot hole prevents splitting of the wood by too much force during the introduction and tightening of the screw.
The fixing is completed, the heads of the screws disappear in the cleat.

Step 4: Drill the holes for the rope


This time the holes are through. Using the square and a pencil, transfer the central axis of the cleat from below to the top board, in order to drill from above which will come out below, in the middle of the cleat. Following this traced axis, measure 6 cm from the outer edge of the swing. This distance avoids falling on the fixing screws below and allows better stability of the swing by spacing a little more the two strands of rope than if we had pierced in the center (7.5 cm from the edge).
After positioning the clamp and inserting the bit of 18 in the drill, we drill from above so that the possible splitting of the wood at the exit of the bit does not come to visually damage the visible side of the seat.
The through hole is the diameter of the rope, it's perfect.
The seat is ready, now is the time to fix the swing.

Step 5: Cut the rope

You can choose to fix your swing differently, think about it before cutting the rope. Cut the rope with a sharp knife. We will use tape to prevent the cut ends from fraying (you can also burn the ends of the strings, but beware of finger burns and foul smells, because burnt polypropylene is not a particularly pleasant smell). We cut 2 ends of 2 meters each for the stability of the seat and 2 other ends of 3 meters which will be used to fix the swing in the tree.

Step 6: Make the fixing knots

We come to the fun part of the realization, the knots. Although there are several ways to do this, we have chosen a reliable method, but one that allows you to remove the swing quite easily.
Take a piece of 2 meters, the ends of which you will pass through each hole in the seat. Tie a "single knot" or an "eight knot" to prevent the ends from coming out.
Now fix the loop of the seat on the other end of 3 meters by making a "double sheet knot".
To fix the swing in the tree, we will use a "sucker knot" which is a "capstan knot" with an extra half-key passage, because the capstan knot tends to loosen when it doesn’t there is no tension on the rope. In this example, the diameter of the branch is not suitable for the use of a swing, it is necessary to consider at least one branch having a diameter of 20 cm for more security. We will also avoid hanging the swing on a cherry tree whose branches are known to be extremely brittle.
The current weather conditions do not allow you to show the object of your desires in place, so a drawing will allow it, at least, to get an idea of ​​it.